|In this installment we will explore the fabulous cruising grounds in the area around Loreto. The beautiful and historic town of
Loreto was founded over 300 years ago and was the first European settlement in the Californias. The Jesuits founded the first
mission in the Californias at Loreto in 1697. As Loreto grew it served as a base for California exploration and for the expansion of
the mission system throughout the peninsula. In addition to being a beautiful little town, there are several awesome Islands less
than a days sail away. You can find corresponding pictures by clicking on the Photo Album button above. Remember, you can always
look at our previous ramblings by clicking on the archived Journal Entries above and the corresponding archived Photo Albums on the
Photo Album page.
In Loreto we picked up our friend Birgit (pronounced B-ah-git) who came down to visit for a week. We anchored off of Loreto, in
the “open roadstead” (meaning, no shelter if the wind comes up) to pick her up at the airport in town. The weather behaved as
predicted and we had no problems in picking her up and spending a night anchored in front of the town. We were able to tour the
town, pick up some provisions, and have a nice dinner at the Giggling Dolphin before heading back to the boat. If you order a
margarita at the Giggling Dolphin you have to mount the bicycle powered blender to make your drink. Work, work, work!
We spent the entire week exploring Isla Carmen, Isla Danzante, and Candelero Chico (a small cove on the peninsula). On Isla Carmen
we stayed in Ballandra Cove one night and then moved around to Vee Cove. Vee Cove is a narrow V-shaped cove (what a coincidence)
with 50-foot rock cliffs along either side of the cove and a sandy beach in the V. The cliffs have numerous caves, some large enough
to drive several dinghys into, and interesting snorkeling. We enjoyed 2 days here, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking, and, of course,
playing bocci ball. After Vee Cove we travelled around to Salinas Bay on the east side of the Island. Salinas Bay houses an
abandoned salt mining facility where we stopped and explored before moving on to our next anchorage. It appeared that an eco-
tourism operation was setting up, as some of the old buildings were nicely refurbished along with a storage area containing dozens of
Following our lunch stop at Salinas Bay, we continued south along the island searching for a “good arroyo hike” our friends from
Solmate had described for us. We finally found it, marked on our chart as Arroyo Blanco. Since it was again a calm day, we were
able to anchor in the open roadstead here and go ashore for exploration. It was a very interesting canyon that previous rainy
seasons had carved from the rock. The rock in this area consists of sandstone and mudstone that is chocked full of fossil shells.
We enjoyed climbing up the mini waterfalls for about a mile up the canyon until we got to the granddaddy waterfall. Not being
equipped with climbing equipment, we turned around here. This arroyo must be something to see during the rainy season.
The following day we sailed to Candelero Chico, where we met up with our friends off of Warrior – once again snorkeling, swimming,
and bocci ball. Birgit and Melinda went for a long hike to see what was on the other side of the spit of land which forms this lovely
little cove. So off through the desert and cactus they scrambled only to find… surprise another deserted cove.
The final evening of Birgits visit found us at Isla Danzante’s Honeymoon Cove, a beautiful little cove with very clear shallow
water. We anchored in the north bight of this cove which is only large enough to accommodate one vessel. We went ashore here and
hiked to the top of the cliffs around the cove and were treated to some incredible views (see photos).
The following day we reluctantly bid farewell to Birgit and sent her back to So Cal. We owe Birgit a big thank you for bringing all
the many boat parts and other gear we decided we needed from the states, as well as for being such great crew while we explored the
fabulous cruising grounds in the Loreto area.
In our next installment we will present our journey from Loreto north to Santa Rosalia. Until then, as always, we wish you all a
fresh breeze and following seas!